The Vintage Ports from Raby Castle
Posted 21 January 2025
by Vintage Wine and Port
Hidden Treasures: Raby Castle’s Vintage Port Collection
In the far northeast of England, nestled amidst the rolling countryside of County Durham, lies Raby Castle, a sprawling fortress with a history as rich as its architecture. In 2016, when Lord and Lady Barnard inherited this centuries-old estate, they could hardly have anticipated the remarkable discovery awaiting them in its labyrinthine cellars. Among the castle’s many stone bins, a forgotten treasure trove of 754 bottles of vintage port, undisturbed for up to a century, was uncovered.
A Castle of Layers and Secrets
Raby Castle traces its origins to the 11th century, with significant portions of the current structure dating back to the 14th century, as well as notable additions from the 18th and 19th centuries. The 18th-century modifications were the work of John Carr of York, a prominent architect also known for his designs in Oporto. Constructed from locally sourced gritstone, the castle boasts a formidable, fortified appearance, with impressively thick stone walls in many areas. Since 2016, it has been the home of Lord and Lady Barnard (Harry and Kate), who have infused new life into this storied estate.
The castle is a remarkable blend of architectural styles, with its towers and expansions reflecting the ambitions of successive generations. With over 100 rooms in various states of preservation and restoration, Raby Castle serves as both a historical treasure and a functional family residence. Its immense scale lends itself to hidden surprises, including the discovery of a vintage port cache nestled in its cool, shadowy cellars—a testament to its rich and layered history.
A Legacy of Fine Vintages
The vintage port collection had been amassed by previous Lords Barnard, primarily for use as stirrup cups—a traditional pre-hunt drink. Judging by the number of bottles, they must have hunted frequently! When the Barnards enlisted the expertise of Christie’s wine specialists to examine the collection, they found that the bottles dated from 1950 back to 1924, with some of the most esteemed vintages miraculously preserved.
Among the highlights were Taylor’s 1948, Fonseca 1934, and Dow’s 1927 and 1924, alongside the comparatively youthful Cockburn 1950. For lovers of vintage port, the discovery was extraordinary—not just for its scale but for the rarity and quality of the wines.
The Cellar Records Tell a Tale
The castle’s beautifully maintained cellar books chronicle the history of the collection, documenting the consumption of bottles from the early 1900s through the 1960s. Sadly, earlier treasures, such as the 1908s and 1912s, were long gone, and even the 1924 vintage had been partially depleted, leaving only 36 bottles of this exceptional wine. However, the 200 bottles of Fonseca 1934 remained, an astonishing find that proved to be a standout when tasted at a special event in April.
An Exceptional Tasting Experience (summarised from participants reviews)
The tasting, held in the grand setting of Raby Castle, began with the Cockburn 1950. Although considered an "undistinguished" vintage by wine expert Michael Broadbent, it served as a pleasant prelude to the more celebrated wines. The Taylor’s 1948, described by Broadbent as "invariably magnificent," lived up to its reputation, showing remarkable depth and complexity, with the potential to evolve further.
The Fonseca 1934, crafted by the Guimaraens family, was a showpiece. The legacy of this family remains strong, with David Guimaraens now serving as head winemaker for The Fladgate Partnership, which owns Fonseca today. The Dow’s 1927 and 1924 vintages also showcased their historical charm. Despite its age, the 1924 exhibited a vividness and liveliness that was nothing short of extraordinary.
A Legacy Preserved
This incredible collection, once forgotten, has now been brought into the spotlight as a testament to the foresight and taste of the Barnard family’s predecessors. The vintage ports, lovingly stored in the castle’s stone bins, tell a story not just of winemaking excellence but of history, tradition, and the enduring allure of Raby Castle itself. As these bottles go up for sale, they offer port lovers and collectors alike the chance to own a piece of this remarkable legacy.
Tasting notes:
1950 Cockburn
This vintage was not widely regarded as one of the most auspicious, marked by challenging growing conditions and uneven ripening in some areas. Despite this, a select few houses, including Cockburn, chose to fully declare it, showcasing their confidence in the wine's potential. This decision, driven by the unconventional yet astute judgment of John Smithes, Cockburn’s master blender, has stood the test of time. His idiosyncratic approach to vintage declarations prioritized the character and structure of the wine over conventional expectations, and this wine exemplifies his foresight.
Now mid-deep in color with a broad, browning rim, the wine reveals a restrained nose that gradually opens to a refined bitter cherry fruit profile. On the palate, it exhibits a firm yet balanced structure, defined by linear, sinewy tannins that provide a sense of energy and finesse. The finish is long and elegant, with the subtle cherry stone fruit gently emerging behind the dusty, gravelly tannins. While it may not possess the power of more heralded vintages, its elegance and complexity make it a standout, ready to be enjoyed now and with many years of graceful aging still ahead.
1948 Taylor Vintage Port
1948 Taylor's Vintage Port. A legendary Port still remarkably deep in color for its age, this vintage Port bursts with a striking nose, revealing an exotic combination of tropical fruit. The palate mirrors this exuberance, delivering a voluptuous richness with a gloriously smooth texture and luxurious mouthfeel. Mid-palate, the fruit’s opulence takes center stage, momentarily masking the underlying structural, spicy tannins that gradually emerge. The finish is nothing short of perfection, with layers of soft summer strawberries and fresh tropical vibrancy leaving an enduring impression of harmony and elegance. A stunning example of vintage Port, this thrilling wine showcases remarkable depth and complexity. Pure Perfection: 100 Points. Tc Christies dinner - November 2024.
1934 Fonseca Vintage Port
Fonseca’s 1934 stands out as an exceptional wine from a split vintage spanning 1934 and 1935. Bottled by Hatch & Mansfield, this is an extremely rare Port, with even the library stock in the Fonseca lodge being very limited.
Still with a deep red core, the wine offers a reserved and refined character, revealing dark chocolate intensity on the nose and a fuller, more textured palate. It exudes lively elegance and freshness, with a subtle hint of salinity adding complexity. Beautifully defined soft berry fruit is perfectly balanced by fine, linear tannins, while a cherry stone freshness lingers gracefully on the finish. With lace-like finesse, remarkable energy, and enduring strength, this Fonseca is nothing short of spectacular—brimming with vitality and a testament to the outstanding quality of the 1934 vintage. TC 99 - Christies Dinner London November 2024 99points
1927 Dow Vintage Port
Bottled by Page & Sandeman, the Dow 1927 is one of the finest vintages of the last century. While a fair quantity was originally bottled, many have since been enjoyed, making it a rare treasure today. In the glass, the wine displays a beautiful light red hue and offers an exceptional drinking experience. Its inviting nose spreads beautifully from the decanter, revealing refined dark chocolate notes layered over subtle, elegant fruit. On the palate, it showcases creamy fruit, supported by tightly knit, spicy-peppery tannins that remain grippy and remarkably fresh. The finish is firm and dry, a hallmark of Dow’s distinctive style. With phenomenal texture, impressive length, and enduring structure, this wine is a remarkable testament to the vintage’s legendary status. 96 points TC christies Dinner November 2024
